The 9 Best 540 Belay devices (2023 reviews)

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Best overall: Buy: Black Diamond 540 Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best For home: Buy: Petzl Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best For Mountaineering: Buy: AOKWIT 540 Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best For retro climber: Buy: Black Diamond Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best For catching lead: Buy: Edelrid abseil Device READ REVIEW

Best For rappelling: Buy: Edelrid 540 Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best For beginner: Buy: Trango 540 Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best For lead Climbing: Buy: Wild country 540 Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best versatility: Buy: Petzl 540 Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best overall: Black Diamond 540 Belay Device

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The black diamond 540 belay device is long-lasting, rigid and fits well with your daily purpose like a dream. The ATC Guide is even more versatile, but in ways not of consequence for most climbers. Unlike the minimalist ATC Sport, it has a second opening for rappelling. It works with both the 11+mm gym ropes you are likely to encounter as well as 9mm lead climbing ropes. It offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode. It will be great for rec climbing, but rappelling or rescue/recovery work with a thicker or static rope will be difficult.

The opening is a little small for the rope, but still works.

• Very well made and fine quality belay device
• Performs its function well, no troubles yet
• Works great with 9mm or 11mm rope

Best For home: Petzl Belay Device

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Petzl is known for creating pragmatic and minimalist device for people on the go, and its line of petzl belay device definitely falls in line with that reputation. If you would like, The Petzl Reverso is compatible with most rope diameters. It allows the belayer to easily unblock the rope and lower someone. For the belayer, it is very smooth, easy to hold a fallen climber steady, and the handle makes for a very controlled descent. Most significantly, the cam on the GriGri + could accommodate a wider range of ropes and it allows for a smoother, progressive lower.

The GriGri gives a lot of peace of mind over a standard ATC. It is perfect to use it for lead climbing and top rope super simple to use. The cam in the device automatically cinches down to arrest the rope. As the climber, it is a much nicer feel on falls and a more controlled descent.

• Rope, belay device and locking carabiner with isolation feature to prevent shifting or cross-loading
• Works great for both lead and top rope belay
• Will hold any human weight plus dynamic forces when lead climbing

Best For Mountaineering: AOKWIT 540 Belay Device

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Compared with other device in this category, the aokwit 540 belay device has a convenient design. The bent ear figure 8 has an obvious advantage that by wrapping the rope around its ear, it can help people hang in middle air to appreciate the scenery or work in high level. It is light and strong. It is used to descend in the same way as the standard figure. It can increase the friction and slow down the descending speed. It's bigger than your standard hook for climbing and works way better with lifting materials to the rooftop from the ground. It is good as a normal two man with the extra carabiner.

• Solid device for routine or emergency belays
• One of the new comers and featured product

Best For retro climber: Black Diamond Belay Device

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Compared with other device in this category, the black diamond belay device has a convenient design. The Black Diamond super 8 belay rappel device uses a unique design that eliminates excess material by thinning out the non-stick lines. It fits and feeds well through the upper hole. It's light and strong and has many uses. It has a design for smooth handling. It's easy to use, and there are no moving parts, and makes climbing just that much easier.

It is ideal for the retro climber or search and rescue professional. It is a solid "figure 8" that is extremely easy to use. The instructions are easy to read and its written in many languages just so you don't get it wrong and have to get rescued because you misuse it.

• Good brand reputation
• Good investment for long term

Best For catching lead: Edelrid abseil Device

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Next on the list, we've got yet another device that manages to win our hearts. It's the edelrid abseil device and it's widely considered as one of the best convenient device you can buy. It takes some practice to avoid a jerky experience and it's unavoidable on a twisted old rope in the gym. It works with one rope and it is heavy. It's great for belaying hang-dog climbers without needing to apply force to the rope while you wait. It is also used for rappelling as well.

The auto lock feature is great and the equipment is very versatile. It's magnificently light and flat. It is not a fool proof replacement to proper belaying/rappelling/rescue technique.

• Simpler, lighter, and cheaper than a grigri
• Delivers what they promise

Best For rappelling: Edelrid 540 Belay Device

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We know from years of feedback from readers, customers and amazon sellers, what most people want in a convenient and appropriate device. The edelrid 540 belay device is exactly that - it's a simple device that hits all the right notes. It bites so well that it's taking some practice to lower a climber when compared to other similar devices. It comes with high braking performance for single ropes. The steel makes the Jul2 feel so much more bomber. It's light, thin, simple, and works well.

The device locks up perfectly to hold a fall ( or to let the climber hang a dog), and it is easy to release the friction for lowering. It has no moving parts plus has zero signs of wear. It's easy to use for beginners and only takes a few tries to get power smoothly down.

• Lightweight, simple to set up, and the rope runs smoothly along the slot
• Easy to use for lead and top rope
• Much smoother than the mega jul, assisted braking and very easy to lower
• Extra safety features not present with tubes

Best For beginner: Trango 540 Belay Device

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We know from years of feedback from readers, customers and amazon sellers, what most people want in a convenient and appropriate device. The trango 540 belay device is exactly that - it's a simple device that hits all the right notes. It is the world’s most ergonomic belay device. It is designed to catch a climber. The Trango Vergo opens up to attach to a rope, so you dont have to run the rope through the device to engage it. It feeds flawlessly (when used properly of course) and has little to no ways of overriding the auto braking system. It is great for top rope.

The most comfortable way to use the vergo is also the safest way, so you’re never tempted to override the device, even when feeding slack. It's a bit snug with a 10.2mm rope but that's to be expected with a thicker rope. This device is extremely easy to use, even for beginners like myself.

• Easy feed for lead climbing and also great for top rope
• Good brand reputation

Best For lead Climbing: Wild country 540 Belay Device

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If you are currently in the market looking for a popular device for your daily purpose, you cannot go wrong with the wild country 540 belay device. The beauty of the Revo is that it feeds rope better than anything else out there, bar none. It is best for lead climbing, but gives rope very easily. It's super smooth for both top rope or lead belaying. It is bi-directional, the locking function works regardless of the rope orientation.

The grigri might be funner to use, but with 20 percent real world situations where it does not self catch, the Revo would be a great backup. It is fantastic for lowering light people where you'd have to manually push rope thru an assisted belay device like a grigri. It's very simple to use like an ATC, but has that backup safety measure just in case. It has no need for a specific locking karabiner.

• You throw rope as fast as you need to with no resistance
• You can catch falls and lower using your normal good brake hand movements
• Takes a bit of practice to lower heavy people
• Incredibly smooth paying out slack for lead climbing

Best versatility: Petzl 540 Belay Device

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Best part: petzl 540 belay device costs comparatively low and it is available to ship in 24 hours. It is a belay device with assisted braking for indoors and outdoors. It comes with grigri 2, the further you pull the brake handle towards you, the lesser is the rope friction becomes inside of the device. It has a special mode for comfortable top-rope belay and an anti-panic handle. The two settings are great for basically just if you are starting out using it for only top roping and does a fine job at gripping the rope.

It is great for top ropers who plan on lead climbing. It is used mostly for climbing outdoors or for "bring your own belay device" gyms. It is easy to use while climbing roofs.

• Fantastic belay device when weight is behind it
• Adjustable locking force, anti-panic release, steel edge for wear
• Easy to use and is very safe