The 7 Best ATC Pilot Belay devices (2023 reviews)

We consider a atc pilot belay device to be a worthy investment in the long run. We are here to help you choose the right one for your purposes from all the best available products in market today.

Our review process: Show/Hide

Our Top Picks:

Best overall: Buy: Black Diamond Solid ATC READ REVIEW

Best For grigri: Buy: Petzl Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best For Mountaineering: Buy: Petzl ATC Pilot Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best For catching lead: Buy: Edelrid abseil Device READ REVIEW

Best gym single pitch Belay Device: Buy: Edelrid ATC Pilot Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best For thinner ropes: Buy: Black Diamond ATC Pilot Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best With v GROOVE: Buy: Dometool ATC Pilot Belay Device READ REVIEW

Best overall: Black Diamond Solid ATC

Buy on Amazon

The black diamond solid atc is the best feature-rich device on the market today. It is good for a beginner to belay a large size climber. It offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode. The Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes. It works well, as far as feeding rope out quickly and providing a good/easy catch. The Versatile design accepts ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm. It is really tough and sturdy.

• Worked well with 10mm rope for rappelling
• Would recommend for versatility and ease of use
• One of the easiest and smoothest belay devices

Best For grigri: Petzl Belay Device

Buy on Amazon

The petzl belay device should be able to handle its purpose and duties with ease. If you would like, The Petzl Reverso is compatible with most rope diameters. It functions perfectly but the "red" color is definitely more orange than red. It can be used with single ropes from 8.5 to 11 mm. Compared to the Grigri 2, it's easier to manage lead belays as it feeds smoother, it works with smaller ropes, and is much smoother lowering than the. The cam in the device automatically cinches down to arrest the rope.

It is used for mostly sport climbing in wa on some 5.10s, this thing is pretty pog. It is easy to set up and clip in, and the operation is very similar to a classic atc.

• Works great for both lead and top rope belay
• Rope, belay device and locking carabiner with isolation feature to prevent shifting or cross-loading
• Will hold any human weight plus dynamic forces when lead climbing

Best For Mountaineering: Petzl ATC Pilot Belay Device

Buy on Amazon

The petzl atc pilot belay device is the best reliable device on the market today. It is great for top ropers who plan on lead climbing. It comes with an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the grigri + is a cam-assisted blocking device for climbing in the gym or outside. It has a special mode for comfortable top-rope belay and an anti-panic handle. It comes with plus, as you move the lever towards you, the rope is initially released with less and less braking, but if you pull the handle all the way towards you, you hear sort of a click and the device will lock again.

The two settings are great for basically just if you are starting out using it for only top roping and does a fine job at gripping the rope. The switch has a sort of locking pin inside of the handle. It is useful mostly for climbing outdoors or for "bring your own belay device" gyms.

• Fantastic belay device when weight is behind it
• Easy to use and is very safe
• Adjustable locking force, anti-panic release, steel edge for wear

Best For catching lead: Edelrid abseil Device

Buy on Amazon

Not everyone likes to purchase device for their daily purpose, but the edelrid abseil device would be an anomoly. It works with one rope and it is heavy. Rappelling in the auto-locking mode provides extra safety and lets you get away without an autoblock, but it's hard to do smoothly and the wire bends around a lot due to the force you're exerting. You can use it like a "normal" belay device, or with a thumb in the molded plastic, either way you can be sure your climber is safe. It makes climbing marginally safer.

This device has an auto lock by clamping down on the rope and carabiner, so the rope won't slip. It is great for sport climbing, sucks for multi pitch. It is easy to use and the added safety of the assisted braking makes belaying much easier, although good belay technique should always be used.

• Very safe if you stay within a certain rope size range
• Easy to use, light, excellent quality
• Simpler, lighter, and cheaper than a grigri

Best gym single pitch Belay Device: Edelrid ATC Pilot Belay Device

Buy on Amazon

Edelrid offers a variety of device for personal choice and yet maintaining quality in all the variants. It can be quite a challenge to lower the climber smoothly. It's a bare bones, tubular belay device made out of actual steel. It comes with high braking performance for single ropes. The steel is wear resistant, so you will never have to replace this device ever, and it should last forever if used properly.

It's light, thin, simple, and works well. The simple auto-lock feature without the added complication of many auto-locking devices is an added safety feature that will help new lead belayer's. It's suitable for 8.9 –11.0 mm single ropes.

• Easy to use for lead and top rope
• Extra safety features not present with tubes
• Catches very well, little jerky on the lowering

Best For thinner ropes: Black Diamond ATC Pilot Belay Device

Buy on Amazon

The black diamond atc pilot belay device should be able to handle its purpose and duties with ease. The ATC is an essential tool for any climber who likes to defy gravity and/or access the ground with minimal impact. It features a large surface area that dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling, and the smooth-handling geometry accommodates rope sizes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm. It is typical black diamond quality, very good. It is durable in all conditions. It is ideal for thinner ropes.

It is a simple and ingenious device that keeps your attention where it needs to be. It features a large surface area that dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling, and the smooth-handling geometry accommodates rope sizes from 7.

• Good for beginners and long-time climbers alike
• Perfect for gym climbing, teaching, and learning
• Lot of satisfied buyers

Best With v GROOVE: Dometool ATC Pilot Belay Device

Buy on Amazon

The dometool atc pilot belay device's superior materials makes sure that it ages well with use. It is designed with 0.4cm rubber wire rope, in the use of atc, it will be more convenient. It is great with the v groove on 8-12mm rope.

• Forging magnesium alloy with high strength, light weight, portable and easy to carry
• Good investment for long term