The 5 Best different Belay devices (2023 reviews)

Not everyone likes to purchase device for their daily usage, but the black diamond different belay device would be an anomoly. The ATC Guide is even more versatile, but in ways not of consequence for most climbers. It works with both the 11+mm gym ropes you are likely to encounter as well as 9mm lead climbing ropes. Unlike the standard symmetrical ATC, it has friction teeth on one side that aid in holding and lowering heavier climbers. It offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode. You'll never encounter that indoors, but if you've any intention of moving outdoors, it's a feature worth having.

Among the four ATCs from Black Diamond, this one is the best for new climbers. It will be great for rec climbing, but rappelling or rescue/recovery work with a thicker or static rope will be difficult. The guide does have somewhat more friction than the atc-xp and will be preferable if your partner outweighs you by a factor of 1.5 or more, or if you plan to use sub-9.5mm ropes.

Why We Like This:

Performs its function well, no troubles yet
Works great with 9mm or 11mm rope
Simple to use, light weight, and no parts to fail

Best For Mountaineering: Petzl different Belay Device

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The features department is where petzl different belay device truly manages to shine. The PETZL Grigri Plus Belay Device is available in three colors. It has a switch to changes from lead climbing to top rope function. It helps you come to a stop after falling. It can be used for both gym and crag climbing.

It comes with an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the grigri + is a cam-assisted blocking device for climbing in the gym or outside. Unless you get your hand movement down perfectly, the locking mechanism will engage when feeding out the rope rapidly. The cam in the device automatically cinches down to arrest the rope. It allows you to install the rope correctly. The lockable selector knob allows you to choose either top rope or lead belay mode.

Why We Like This:

Compatible with 8.5 to 11 mm dynamic single ropes
Lot of satisfied buyers

Best For catching lead: Edelrid abseil Device

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The edelrid abseil device is specially designed for your daily usage and has all useful features. It makes climbing marginally safer. It takes some practice to avoid a jerky experience and it's unavoidable on a twisted old rope in the gym. It features that, when they work, make this a versatile piece of gear, worth the investment. You can use it like a "normal" belay device, or with thumb in the molded plastic, either way you can be sure your climber is safe. The force of the rope will overpower your thumb easily on this device, and you'll be caught quickly and safely.

The slim and elegant appearance of the device is just an extra bonus. The auto lock feature is great and the equipment is very versatile.

Why We Like This:

Works just like an atc with a lot of added features
Super lightweight, easy to use, and covers all the bases
Excellent for belaying lead climbers because feeding out line involves little resistance

Best For lead: Edelrid different Belay Device

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Compared with other device in this category, the edelrid different belay device has a convenient design. This is nice when your buddy is hangdogging all the way up a project. It is made of ultra-light aluminum, areas susceptible to abrasion made of robust stainless steel. It doesn't auto block as well as a grigri, but feeds out slack much easier and can be used for double rope rappels.

This device has normal tube mode ( m ) and assisted ( a), can take two ropes of a wide range, be used in guide mode atop, and used for normal or assisted rappels / abseils. The way it is, the slider only serves to restrict the rope either to the side that has a notch, in which the rope forms a much tighter angle giving the assist, or to the open side just like any ATC, reverso, pivot, etc. It’s harder to pull slack through than other tube style devices.

Why We Like This:

Cheaper and intuitive, great alternative of grigri
Can be used in guide mode
Easy to use, great for lead or sport, indoor or outdoor
Best all around multi pitch belay device

Best For topside Belay: Conterra different Belay Device

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Compared with other device in this category, the conterra different belay device has a convenient design. It comes with two models available (scarab ti not discussed here), and the scarab is the perfect choice for both fire/rescue and back country rescue environments. It works well even for small diameter ropes. It's simple to use, smooth as butter, doesn't add twists to the rope like some devices can, and it's very intuitive to add and remove friction from the line as needed. It's super easy to go hands free if you need to.

It's tested with a mile of rope pulled through the device and the temperature of the device was less than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. It's not so bulky as any of the racks and works fine with heavy loads. It can be used with single or double ropes.

Why We Like This:

Rope can be attached without unclipping
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