The 7 Best locking Belay devices (2023 reviews)

locking belay devices
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We consider a locking belay device to be a worthy investment in the long run. We are here to help you choose the right one for your purposes from all the best available products in market today.

Our review process:

Our Top Picks:

Best overall:
Buy: Petzl Belay Device
READ REVIEW

Best For climber:
Buy: Petzl locking Belay Device
READ REVIEW

Best For rappelling:
Buy: Mad Rock locking Belay Device
READ REVIEW

Best For lead:
Buy: Edelrid locking Belay Device
READ REVIEW

Best For beginner:
Buy: Trango locking Belay Device
READ REVIEW

Best For Mountaineering:
Buy: Petzі locking Belay Device
READ REVIEW

Best For lead Climbing:
Buy: Wild country locking Belay Device
READ REVIEW

Best overall: Petzl Belay Device

Petzl Belay Device
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Here, we present device that manages to win our hearts. It's the petzl belay device and it's widely considered as one of all-around great device you can buy. It takes more energy when belaying a lead climber to get the rope out fast enough. It can be used with single ropes from 8.5 to 11 mm. As the climber, it is a much nicer feel on falls and a more controlled descent. It's the safest option and very easy to use. It comes with cam-assisted blocking and also it is perfect for working your project.

Most significantly, the cam on the GriGri + could accommodate a wider range of ropes and it allows for a smoother, progressive lower. It's a way lighter hue. It's easy to give slack on lead belay.

Why We Like This:
  • Will hold any human weight plus dynamic forces when lead climbing
  • Rope, belay device and locking carabiner with isolation feature to prevent shifting or cross-loading
  • Works great for both lead and top rope belay

Best For climber: Petzl locking Belay Device

Petzl locking Belay Device
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The petzl locking belay device is capable of outshining several other device featured in this list in overall features for the price point. It is essentially an upgraded version of gerigri 2, with some stainless steel parts for improved durability, added safety feature (panic mode) and a switch for top rope / lead climbing belaying. It allows the user to choose between two belay modes. It can be used on all single ropes (8.5 to 11 mm in diameter) and optimized for 8.9 to 10.5 mm diameters. The two settings are great for basically just if you are starting out using it for top roping and does a fine job at gripping the rope.

The switch has a sort of locking pin inside of the handle. It is useful mostly for climbing outdoors or for "bring your own belay device" gyms. It is easy to use while climbing roofs.

Why We Like This:
  • Adjustable locking force, anti-panic release, steel edge for wear
  • Fantastic belay device when weight is behind it
  • Easy to use and is very safe

Best For rappelling: Mad Rock locking Belay Device

Mad Rock locking Belay Device
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The mad rock locking belay device is capable of outshining several other device featured in this list in overall features in its price range. By constructing the Lifeguard without the internal spring, the Safeguard is a great tool for rescue and rigging work. It works great and makes getting down so much quicker and safer. It will lock onto the rope with very little force giving you the confidence that once the position of the rope is set the device will not creep or slide.

It comes with a smaller rope diameter the climber gets lowered a little too fast until you get a hang of it. The cam engages the moment the rope is weighed, even if it's just an ounce. It is 1000% better than using knots. It is perfect for saddle hunting.

Why We Like This:
  • Hot forged aluminum and stainless steel construction
  • Delivers what they promise

Best For lead: Edelrid locking Belay Device

Edelrid locking Belay Device
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Not everyone likes to purchase device for their daily usage, but the edelrid locking belay device would be an anomoly. It's made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. It works perfectly for guide belay, lead and rappel. It doesn't auto block as well as a grigri, but feeds out slack much easier and can be used for double rope rappels. It has more functionality than those and it’s way lighter than many other assisted braking devices like a gri grigri.

It's versatile, lightweight, has a lot of different functionalities, and works flawlessly the more you get used to it. The bigger and straighter the carabiner, the easier it feeds rope. It comes with a flick of the switch, it loads as you would expect a guide atc, reverso, pivot, etc.

Why We Like This:
  • Easy to use, great for lead or sport, indoor or outdoor
  • Paying out rope is so smooth and seamless especially in brake mode
  • Easy repel, works well in guide mode
  • Would love an extra millimeter of room where the rope slides are

Best For beginner: Trango locking Belay Device

Trango locking Belay Device
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We would, of course, be remiss if we didn't mention trango locking belay device for regular usage. The Trango Vergo opens up to attach to a rope, so you dont have to run the rope through the device to engage it. It is designed to catch a climber. It feeds flawlessly (when used properly of course) and has little to no ways of overriding the auto braking system. It is used for lead belay. Physical and visual indicators reaffirm correct usage, while designated places for your thumb and index finger allow comfortable handling without interfering with the device’s breaking action.

It's a bit snug with a 10.2mm rope but that's to be expected with a thicker rope. It is great for top rope. The most comfortable way to use the vergo is also the safest way, so you’re never tempted to override the device, even when feeding slacks.

Why We Like This:
  • Easy feed for lead climbing and also great for top rope
  • Delivers what they promise

Best For Mountaineering: Petzі locking Belay Device

Petzі locking Belay Device
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The petzі locking belay device's high-end materials makes sure that it ages well with use. It allows the user to move around efficiently in a tree using classic prusik pulley system technique. It has a flexible positioning ring that helps keep the connector oriented along its major axis. The lower attachment hole with high-efficiency swivel ensures stable and correct positioning of the mechanical Prusik and optimal rope glide through the dev. It can be used on either double ropes or a single rope, providing great versatility.

The device locks automatically on the rope once the friction chain extends. It is mounted on sealed ball bearings to allow the slack to be taken up easily. These products are for mountaineering, rock-climbing industrial work and/or rescue use only.

Why We Like This:
  • Separated and curved side plates for better wear resistance
  • Auxiliary attachment hole for adding a zillon lanyard or connecting
  • Good investment for long term

Best For lead Climbing: Wild country locking Belay Device

Wild country locking Belay Device
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The wild country locking belay device is specially designed for your regular usage and has all useful features. The beauty of the Revo is that it feeds rope better than anything else out there, bar none. It works in both directions to minimize accidents that occur from incorrectly loaded belay devices and doesn't require any deviation from the standard belaying technique. It's super smooth for both top rope or lead belaying. The cam in a seatbelt only grabs when it gets pulled really hard and fast,like the Revo. It is bi-directional, the locking function works regardless of the rope orientation.

The Revo is pretty idiot proof, so a dehydrated, distracted average Joe won't easily be able to screw up using it, unlike the GriGri. The GriGri might be funner to use, but with 20 percent real world situations where it does not self catch, the Revo would be a great backup.

Why We Like This:
  • You can catch falls and lower using your normal good brake hand movements
  • You throw rope as fast as you need to with no resistance
  • Incredibly smooth paying out slack for lead climbing
  • Takes a bit of practice to lower heavy people